Leopards, Ludo and Lasagna

Four Days at Tanhau Lodge | 14th August – 17 August 2025

What happens when three families, two cars, one loyal driver, and a sleepy dog decide to spend an Independence Day weekend in Corbett? You don’t just get a holiday — you get a travel tale filled with laughter, late-night board games, barking deer, and even a leopard caught on camera.

This is the story of our August 2025 escape into the hills — one part road trip, one part jungle adventure, and a whole lot of memories.

Day 1: Mango Groves, Music Wars & Ludo Battles

We pulled out of Noida and Indirapuram mid-morning, our two-car convoy humming along the highway. Paramjit — Romit and Parboti’s faithful, enthusiastic driver — steered the Kia Carens with Romit, Aratrika, and Simba (the dog who believes naps are the highest form of art). I took the wheel of our Toyota Hycross, where the Mitras, the Basus, and Parboti created a livelier scene.

Of course, the real drama wasn’t the traffic but the playlists. I leaned toward House and classic rock, Parboti fought hard for Kishore da, and Romit occasionally stirred awake to demand old Hindi film songs. Anuradha finally brokered peace by suggesting silence — which, ironically, was the only soundtrack everyone agreed on.

By late afternoon we reached Kishkinda Experience, a family-run homestay near Corbett’s Dhela Gate. Tucked among mango trees, it welcomed us with two friendly dogs, breezy verandas, and simple but delicious home-style food. Dinner was dal, rotis, sabzis, and chicken curry — comfort in its purest form.

The night ended with a fierce Ludo tournament: Aratrika and Mihika teamed up, Anuradha and Parboti formed the second team, while Souvik and I fought as lone wolves. Romit edited his ET story in peace, Simba snored, and laughter filled the orchard as Souvik emerged the ultimate champion.

Day 2: Snails, Frogs & The Road to Tanhau

I woke early with my Canon 60D and a 50mm prime lens, wandering the orchard to capture snails, frogs, and sleepy trees in soft morning light. Souvik soon joined with his Nikon arsenal, while Paramjit cleaned both cars with his trademark enthusiasm.

Post-breakfast, we set off toward Tanhau Lodge, Gweri. The drive through Dhikuli’s chaotic commercialization was jarring, but once we crossed the Mohan Range and began climbing the mountains, serenity returned. At the foothills, Sunando — the heart behind Tanhau — and his trusted driver Panchi awaited us with a Jimny and Gypsy. The last stretch was a boulder-rattling climb that tested spines but rewarded souls.

At Tanhau, the rooms matched the wilderness. Souvik and Mihika took the Bagh Room, perched higher with sweeping views, while the rest of us settled into the adjoining Chukar Rooms — perfect for families.

Later that day, we took a forest walk with Umed, Sunando’s right-hand man. We spotted barking deer, paused at old school ruins, and watched mist swirl around the slopes. Parboti, of course, kept asking, “When will the tiger show up? Why not a leopard?” Umed, ever patient, smiled and explained that the forest reveals itself only when it wishes to.

Day 3: Dogs, Treks & The Dusk Drive

At dawn, it was just Souvik, myself, six dogs, and Umed. Wolfie and Mojo, the veterans, paced themselves — though Mojo had to be taken back halfway. Shie and Bolt, both leopard-attack survivors, ran about as if indestructible. Shrek, the excitable Doberman, alternated between zooming ahead and showering me with slobbery affection. And Karma, the wise German Shepherd mix, sat on ledges like a monk surveying the valley. The forest below stretched out like a green ocean, Corbett’s vastness visible from our vantage point. With each shutter click, I felt the forest seep into memory. Later, the others joined Umed for a shorter walk, spotting more deer and enjoying the forest at their own pace.

By dusk, we piled into two vehicles: Sunando drove the Jimny with Aratrika, Parboti, and Simba, while the rest of us bounced along in the Gypsy with Panchi — who knew every rock and rut, sometimes driving confidently even without headlights.

We stopped at animal crossings, listening for alarm calls under a canopy of stars. Barking deer barked, civets darted across, rabbits froze in our beams, and giant spider webs glittered like constellations. At one point, unruly tourists in other Gypsies screamed into the night, drivers revving recklessly — only for Sunando to firmly remind us that silence is the first language of the jungle.

Dinner that night was Sunando’s legendary chicken Khao Suey, followed by stories and laughter on the veranda. But the forest wasn’t done with us. Leaves rustled, the dogs barked, and a sense of unseen eyes pricked our skin. Simba, curled up, sensed something — then returned to sleep. The jungle always holds its secrets.

Day 4: The Leopard, The Porcupine & The Long Drive Back

Morning coffee came with revelations. Sunando showed us camera-trap footage from the night before: a leopard trying to breach the electric fence, thwarted at first, while a porcupine casually squeezed under the gate. It was a reminder that in the forest, wildness is always closer than you think.

Departure was bittersweet. The descent was slow, conversations mixed with silences as we braced for the return to city life. At Garhmukteshwar, traffic jams tested our patience, and at the infamous Rajaji Dhaba, we were told of an hour-long wait in what felt more like a circus than a restaurant. Instead, we detoured to Pandit Ji ka Shiva Dhaba, where food arrived quickly and spirits lifted. By 6 PM, the long drive home began in earnest.

Why This Journey Stays With Me

This trip wasn’t about chasing tigers or ticking off sightings. It was about friendship, food, and forests. About Parboti’s endless tiger questions, Souvik’s birding passion, Romit’s quiet humor, Mihika’s teenage playlists, Aratrika’s bond with every dog she met, Anuradha’s quiet joy in the wilderness, and Simba’s unshakable naps.

It was about laughter echoing over Ludo, coffee on verandas that felt watched by unseen eyes, and the thrill of knowing a leopard prowled the same night we sat under the stars.

Leopards, Ludo & Lasagna isn’t just a travelogue. It’s a reminder that journeys are made of small, imperfect, unforgettable moments.

📥 Download the full PDF here: Leopards, Ludo & Lasagna

© Surajit Mitra | 2025